LYSKAMM (4527M) TRAVERSE

First climbed by EN Buxton, L Stephen with mountain guides J Anderegg and F Binner in 1864. The traverse is rated AD. There are some steep snow slopes (45º) and a rocky scramble crux rated II+. 

We start from the village of Gressoney-La-Trinité in Italy’s Aosta Valley, a village that is also known as a ski freeride paradise. We will take a gondola up to Colle di Bettaforca and walk 3h up to the Quintino Sella Hut, well situated at the edge of the Felik Glacier at 3598m. An alpine start will see us reaching 4000m at dawn; from there we will follow the long snow ridge, sometimes sharp and corniced, all the way to the summit of Lyskamm West at 4479m then across and towards the highest point of Lyskamm East at 4527m. An exhilarating descent brings us to the broad Lys Col and then down the nice easy south slopes to the Gnifetti Hut, and onwards until we reach the Punta Indren Gondola that will take us down to the starting point after completing an amazing traverse of the mountain.

This climb is one of the most iconic snow ridges in the Alps; it can be climbed from west to east, but also from east to west so as to combine this climb with an ascent of the nearby Monte Rosa or Castor. This ascent will sharpen your snow climbing skills, and will be especially beneficial for those aspiring to attempt big mountain expeditions. It will give you excellent acclimation for your next alpine climb.