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Bonatti Tabou, Chandelle du Tacul (3581m)

Located in the heart of the Cirque Maudit, the Chandelle du Tacul is a compact granite monolite offering world class climbing in a spectacular high alpine environment of mighty glaciers, 4000m peaks and granite towers.

BEST PARTS OF TWO GREAT ROUTES ARE COMBINED INTO A FANTASTIC AND SUSTAINED CLIMB

The Chandelle du Tacul (3613m) is one of the satellite towers of the Grand Capucin. It is a true needle of golden granite, which is also an incredible viewpoint: on one side, the slender profiles of the Trident and the Grand Capucin, on the other, the glacial basins of the Maudit and Brenva, dominated by the snowy cap of the Mont Blanc.

The Bonatti Tabou combines the best parts of two routes: lower pitches of the Bonatti route (Bonatti–Gallieni 1960) and top pitches of and Tabou (Piola–Stappazzon 1988) follow an elegant and sustained line on fantastically featured and solid granite wall: 245m of 5c – 6b+ of cracks, slabs and corners.

The Chandelle du Tacul is accessed by a glacier trek passing through séracs of the Glacier du Géant from the Skyway lift station. This glacier approach makes the itinerary a marvellous example of the alpine climbing typical to the Chamonix valley.

From: 750 €

Advanced

You have solid experience in the mountains or rock climbing. You’ve already completed multiple ascents graded French AD or harder and long, multi-pitch rock climbs. You are self sufficient with the basic equipment and safety techniques of multi pitch rock climbing. You can lead climb up to French 5 on rock/ gym and alpine routes up to French PD. You can follow up to French 6a-6b on rock and alpine routes graded French D.
  • Fitness level 4/5
  • Dates on demand
  • Guiding ratio 1:2
  • 1 full day of climbing
  • Available June – October
Clothing
Mountaineering boots
Clothing
Warm hat
Clothing
Fleece or woollen layers
Clothing
Light puffer jacket
Clothing
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Clothing
Warm gloves
Clothing
Thin gloves with leather palms for better grip
Clothing
Gaiters
Clothing
Sun hat
Clothing
Approach shoes
Clothing
Climbing pants
Technical gear
Ice axe
Technical gear
Climbing harness
Technical gear
Screwgate carabiner x3
Technical gear
Belay device
Technical gear
Climbing helmet
Technical gear
Crampons
Technical gear
25 – 30 litres rucksack
Technical gear
Lanyard
Technical gear
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Technical gear
Crack climbing gloves
Technical gear
Chalk bag
Other essentials
Sunglasses
Other essentials
Water bottle – Ideally two 1L bottles
Other essentials
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Included in price

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Transport

Return transport from Chamonix to Italy.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not included in price

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Personal Equipment

Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.