Skip to main content

Papillons Ridge, aiguille du Peigne

A classic ridge climb offering 250m of interesting and varied climbing with some excitingly aerial pitches. This is a ‘must do’ for everyone wishing to climb aesthetic granite lines in the Mont Blanc massif.
Greatest alpine rock climbs

BRILLIANT ROUTE, VARIED PITCHES, INTERESTING TERRAIN, 6A CRUX, 5C OBLIGATORY

The Arete des papillons was first climbed by Henri Camere and Raymond dewas in 1926. It has been one of the most popular rock routes in the Mont Blanc massif ever since.

The approach is relatively quick from the Aiguille du Midi – Plan lift station making this itinerary convenient in case of limited time availability. However this climb can be quite busy so make sure you do not miss the last lift, otherwise you will have walk all the back way to Chamonix.

The climb is an amazing combination of slabs, cracks, corners and ridges which can be sometimes airy – in short, this is true adventure climbing. The hardest moves are 6a but you really need to climb 5c to complete the route as you can pull on slings to get through the hard moves. You certainly can not be afraid of heights on this climb as some of the moves while being easy and safe do feel aerial even for the following climber.

The descent is also interesting with some rappels and scramble down the Papillons Couloir to reach the path leading back to the lift station.

From: 600 €

Intermediate

You have some prior experience climbing or mountaineering. You know basic techniques and basic maneuvers (belaying, rappelling, basic knots). You can follow French 5 (5.8) on rock and French AD in the high mountains.
  • Fitness level 3/5
  • Dates on demand
  • Guiding ratio 1:2
  • One day climb
  • Available June – October
Clothing
Warm hat
Clothing
Fleece or woollen layers
Clothing
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Clothing
Warm gloves
Clothing
Climbing shoes
Clothing
Climbing pants
Clothing
Approach shoes
Clothing
Long sleeve shirt
Technical gear
Climbing harness
Technical gear
Screwgate carabiner x3
Technical gear
Belay device
Technical gear
Climbing helmet
Technical gear
Lanyard
Technical gear
60 cm tape sling or cordelette for prusik
Technical gear
Climbing backpack 20L
Other essentials
Sunglasses
Other essentials
Water bottle – Ideally two 1L bottles
Other essentials
Sun cream high protection (for lips and face)
Included in price

Guide Fee

UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide – a fully qualified and experienced Chamex guide will accompany you for the duration of your trip.

Group Equipment

Ropes, safety equipment, etc will be provided when needed by your guide.

Office Support

Our team is based at the foot of the Aiguillle du Midi cable car and will be happy to help you with any questions you may have before, during or after your trip to Chamonix.

Not included in price

Lift Passes

We will advise you on which lift passes you will need prior to your trip. If lift passes are required we can preorder them for you on request.

Personal Equipment

Please see the “Equipment” tab to find out what you will need on this trip / course.  For private customised guiding, please contact us directly to confirm your personalised kit list.

Food & Drink

The price does not include lunch or snacks. You can bring your own food and we can stop for a picnic, or there may be the option to buy lunch at a mountain hut. Please make sure that you are carrying sufficient water and snacks as we will be in the mountains for a number of hours.

Insurance

Travel insurance including a mountain search and rescue insurance is mandatory on all our trips (we can organise the mountai search and rescue insurance for you on request). We highly advice to have a policy covering the cost of medical treatment and to protect the value of your holiday in the event of cancellation. When taking out insurance please ensure the policy you choose covers you for the activities and altitude included in your itinerary.