Rochefort – Grandes Jorasses traverse

One of the best ridge lines climbs in the Alps: A long and serious climb, with greatly exposed sections. This ridge connects the Dent du Géant with the Pointe Walker of the Grandes Jorasses summiting as many as seven 4000m peaks along the way.

Greatest alpine climbs

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SEVEN SUMMITS AROUND 4000M

Aiguille de Rochefort, Dôme de Rochefort, Pointe Young, Pointe Hélèna, Pointe Marguerita, Pointe Whymper, Pointe Walker

WILD & EXPOSED ENVIRONMENT

Exposed and long ridge in breath taking environment following the high mountain border of France and Italy.

GREAT CLASSIC

One of the most prestigious great alpine routes in the Alps. Long and technical, it is a true test route for experienced mountaineers.

Climb the Grandes Jorasses via the Rochefort ridge

Rochefort – Grandes Jorasses Traverse is an extraordinarily long and superb climb – one of the major Chamonix classic mixed climbs. First climbed in 1935, it remains to be one of the most committing and testing itineraries for its grade.

It is a 3 day long journey through some fantastic terrain including tricky rock sections, fine mixed climbing and exposed ridges. You will collect no less than seven 4000m summits on the way.

Starting from the Torino Hut you will climb in the following order:

Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m)
Dôme de Rochefort (4015m)
Bivouac Canzio (3825m)
Pointe Young (3996m)
Pointe Hélèna (4045m)
Pointe Marguerita (4065m)
Pointe Whymper (4184m)
Pointe Walker (4208m)

The descent is also long and engaging, requiring focus and great navigation skills.

From: 3990 €

Price per person

Expert

Fitness level 5/5
Dates on demand
Guiding ratio 1:1
3-4 days itinerary
Available April – June, depending on conditions
2 nights in huts and a bivouac

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Itinerary

Day 1 – Night in the Torino hut

Quick transfer to Courmayeur from where we’ll reach the Torino Hut by the Skyway cablecar. Night in the hut.

Day 2 – Rochefort ridge traverse

Very early start (3am). First we will reach Rochefort ridge by the Geant glacier. We follow the ridge to the Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m), continue to the Dome du Rochefort (4015m) and to the Canzio Hut (8-10 hours).

Day 3 – Jorasses Traverse

From the Col des Grandes Jorasses climb to the poine Traverse of Jorasses from Pointe Young to Pointe Young (3996m) then up to Pointe Marguerita (4065m), Pointe Hélèna (4045m), Pointe Whymper (4184m) , and finally on to reach the last summit, Pointe Walker (4208m). The traverse is complete and we can start the descent by the normal route on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. We descent until the Boccalatte hut where we stay for the night (10 – 12h).

Day 4 – Descent (optional)

Descent to the valley floor along the hiking path that will take us down to the Planpincieux village from where a transfer will take us back to Chamonix (2h).

Level requirements

Technical level

You must be able to climb grade 5 (UIAA V) comfortably, confidently and fast, in mountain boots, wearing a quite heavy pack. You have to be fast and confident down climbing steep and exposed terrain, sometimes wearing crampons.

Physical fitness

You need to be in excellent physical shape in order to be able to move quickly and efficiently on technical terrain, without getting exhausted. The high altitude will take some of your strength away. The descent is long and difficult and requires a lot of focus and care.

You have to be well acclimatised beforehand for this climb.

Equipment

FAQ

Do i need bivy gear?

Yes sometimes there’s no room at Canzio Hut, then it’s possible to keep going along the ridge until a suitable bivy spot is found. This have the benefit of shortening the summit day and allow to embark on the tricky descent before the hottest hours of the day.