Traverse of the Drus (3754m)
CHALLENGING ROUTE, PETIT DRU – GRAND DRU TRAVERSE
The Drus is an immense granite face towering over the Chamonix Valley.
The smaller neighbour to the Aiguille Verte , it is impressive and imposing. The 900m west face is steep, technical, and a stunning complement to one of the six great north faces of the Alps – recognised for it’s significance in the birth of modern mountaineering.
The Drus has two separate summits: The Grande Aiguille du Dru (3754m) and Petite Aiguille du Dru (3733m), connected by the Breche du Dru (3697m).
The traverse, first completed in 1901, remains a serious and committing route – a true test for experienced alpinists.
While the climbing is quite technical and physical in places, the true challenge lies in combining the climbing, length, terrain complexity, altitude, and level of commitment.
We have included additional night in the Charpoua hut for your comfort. You do not need to hurry to catch the last train back to Chamonix or face a long walk down in case you missed it. We know that the timing is tight and it can be stressful if you are tired. You can rest in the hut for the night and descent the next day.
Our Chamex mountain guides will be delighted to climb this truly iconic route with you!
Itinerary
D1 – Hike up to the Charpoua hut (2841m)
Your guide will either pick you up from your accommodation or meet you at the Montenvers train station to take the train up to the top station. This is where the adventure begins. Quick climb down the ladders leading to the Mer de Glace glacier and hike up to the Charpoua hut (2841m) where we stay for the night. (about 3h30)
D2 – Climb the traverse of the Drus (3754m)
Very early start, we wake up at 1am. We head towards the Charpoua glacier, which we quickly cross towards the foot of the S face of the Drus where we can take off our crampons. The first part of the climb, with relatively easy passages, leads to the brèche des Flammes de Pierre. This is where the more technical climbing starts with some fairly physical passages to reach the summit of Petit Dru (about 6h from the start of the climb). Two more hours of climbing and we should reach the summit of the Grand Dru. The descent is long with several abseils – it will bring us back to glacier from where we quickly get back to the Charpoua hut.
To avoid the pressure to catch the last train to Chamonix, we will stay in the hut for another night to relax after the climb and enjoy the mountain views. The mission is completed, the dream fulfilled.
D3 – Return to Chamonix
Return to Chamonix in the morning.
Level requirements
Technical level
This climb is for highly experienced mountaineers. You need to be comfortable, confident and fast, climbing granite up to 6a in mountaineering boots with a backpack. You need to have very good rope skills and expert abseiling skills. You also need experience in glacier travel skills (walking on crampons).
Physical level
You need excellent physical fitness and stamina to climb with confidence and good speed for about 12 hours. The climbing is fairly physical and technical. You also need to be acclimatized for this climb.
Equipment
