Grand Capucin is a flawless rock pinnacle in the middle of the Vallee Blance. The Swiss Route is 300+ m of superb crack climbing of up to 6b climbing difficulty and A1 (7B free climbing).
Gran Capucin is a tall, steep rock pinnacle made of compact and nicely sculptured granite. With the summit at 3 838m, it offers superb and challenging high altitude rock climbing of difficulties ranging from 6a+ to 8a+.
The Swiss Route was first climbed in 1956 by Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. It may be one of the earliest and more popular of routes established, but it is by no means easy!
You can reach the start of the climb either from top of the Punta Helbronner lift or from the Aiguille du Midi lift. Be prepared for a long day (8 – 10h). Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut maybe a good idea to gain more time. It is good idea to be acclimatised in advance for this route.
The climb itself is around 300m on challenging terrain, it can however be longer if the bergshrund at the base is open. The pitches are as follows: 1) 5c 25m, 2) 6a+ 30m, 3) 5b 35m 4) 5b 35m 5) 6a 40m 6) 6a+ 20m 7) 6b 30m 8) 6a+ 35m 9) 4a 35m 10) 4a 35m. The descent is by abseil.
You have accumulated a well rounded list of difficult multi-pitch rock climbs, and climb regularly at a good level. You can lead French 5+ and follow French 6b-6c. You have good rope work and safety skills (building belays, safely belaying lead climber, abseiling, etc.)